We went to Seoul again. This time we got away without a reservation, I guess because we went at 8:30pm on a Monday rather than 7pm (our first attempt, a couple of months ago).
This time I wanted one of the dishes that you cook yourself on the table, and we spotted that on the menu they have a little symbol for the gas-powered grill. Rah! Result. Much tasty meat. By the time that we left the chef and the remaining waitress were sitting down at the table with the only other diners, whom I think were Korean. Half of the other diners were Asian - a good sign.